Pinacoteca Estacao/Cravo Neto/Packaging frames/Uvaia People

Thanks to our efforts the pineapple jam is nearly finished! Fortunately there was a brand new batch of home made strawberry jam waiting for us!

This shower is still fickle and temperamental- just when we think that we’re learning  its ways, and we’re (or in this case I’m) having a nice shot shower, it goes cold and leaves us (me) stood frozen with a head full of conditioner!

We got some photos of the labs today. They’re so organised, efficient and spacious! We can’t get over it!

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Issy and Priscilla in the massive lab with views of the Jardim de Luz
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The beautiful pigment wall!
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They dedicate an entire sink to brew making! Classic conservation!

After having a quick chat with everyone at the Pinacoteca, Teodora picked us up and took us to the Estacao Pinacoteca, the Pinacoteca’s partner gallery. The Estacao Pinactoca was used as a prison for political prisoners during the dictatorship and now has a permanent exbihition about this era of the country’s history. There’s also a library, a big meeting area and some temporary exhibits.

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We spent a lot of time in the exhitibions of Mario Cravo Neto’s work. We were big fans of one in particular that was a room full of projects of photos that he had taken in New York in the late 70’s/early 80’s that were set to a soundtrack of bluesy tunes.

We compared it with the William Kentridge exhibition at the Pinacoteca that we saw on Sunday.Kentridge’s work involved sitting in dark room watching projections of metronomes and strange silent movies about marching bands and people dressing up as papier mache worlds and exploding to intense, busy music. It was pretty mindblowing stuff in a confusing, unsettling, pretentious kind of way.

Cravo Neto’s exhibit was much more accessible and easy to understand. A person could walk into the exhibit and sit facing any direction for any amount of time and they would still experience the art the way he wanted. He just wanted to show you the magic of those fleeting little moments in a big city… snap shots of signs, people, cars, buildings, all from different angles. Nobody sees all of these little things or has the same thoughts about them and I reckon that he wanted to encapsulate that. Also the photos that he’s included can only have been taken without care as they’re all a bit dodgy in some way- from wonky compositions to being out of focus. They have the same erroneous charm of holiday photos taken before the naughties and photos taken on £2 disposable cameras from Home Bargains when my friends and I were teenagers!

Cravo Neto clocked onto this charm about three decades earlier and its nice to think that they would have been an inconvenience rather than a novelty to his original audience and he would have been trying to show people that they could be beautiful and used to create a certain atmosphere.

 

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Issy in the Mario Cravo Neto Exhibition.
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A bit more of the exhibition. Some of the photos had been printed and were displayed in nice glossy frames.
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A letter about smoking that was in the exhibition. By the end of the placement we will be able to translate this for you!
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“Butterflies and Zebras”: another exhibition the same artist that focused on textures and light.

Butterflies and Zebras was interesting. Cravo Neto changed the context of different objects, turning them from unsettling images into beautiful compositions that played with tones and textures.

Once we had got our art fix for the day we had lunch with Teodora in the Pinacoteca cafe. Our culinary highlights were passion fruit juice that knocks the Rubicon stuff, a nice little chocolate mousse called a “Brigada” (at least I think it is) and some lovely coffee!

After lunch we spent a few hours removing prints from their frames, putting them in Tyvek envelopes and repacking the frames. Again, we couldn’t believe how great the stores are! There is so much room and equipment here dedicated to conservation! We were also impressed how high everybody’s standards are- they are all so neat and organised and keep the equipment as such.

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Issy and Teodora unscrewing the frame of a print using an electric screwdriver.
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Me unscrewing the frame of a print using an electric screwdriver.

On the way home we saw a man in this tshirt. People had warned us about organised crime in Brazil but they had no idea…

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“Gangster. Way of knowledge. University of Cambridge”

We should mention some of the people that we’ve met so far too. Staying in a hostel there are lots of different characters coming in and out.

On Saturday we met a Canadian man called Keiran who is having (in his words) his last holiday for a long time before moving to London to study medicine at UCL.

On Sunday night we had dinner here with a smiley Argentinian man called Charlie who has moved to Sao Paulo to work in a restaurant. He asked, quite genuinely, if we were a couple and I can confirm here to the world that we’re not.

Yesterday morning we met another Canadian man called Nima who was staying at Uvaia for a couple of days to attend some important meetings about his company that gives eco-friendly holiday ratings. https://www.facebook.com/impactourbrasil

There is also a quiet but friendly French man on his laptop who bobs in and out, microwaving cups of tea.

That means the greetings here are “hi/oi/hola/salut” then  “how are you doing?/como vai?/ que tal?/cava?”  and “good thanks/bom obrigada/bien gracias/bon merci”  and we’re still not even sure if all of that is right!

We’ll be fluent in something soon!

We hope that you’re all doing well in England!

Thanks for bothering to read this- we’re still surprised when we see that anybody who isn’t us has looked at it!

 

 

Our first trip to the Pinacoteca!

Had another crackin’ breakfast of homemade jam and bread. It might sound like we’re going on about this too much but breakfast has never been this good!

After having two cold showers each so far, Issy took a stand and asked if there was anyway to make the water warmer. It turns out we were using the shower wrong but now we’re fresh, clean and we’ve learned the valuable life lesson that “you should always ask questions to make life easier for yourself” (this trip is paying for itself already!)

We got the tube to the Pinacoteca today to work out the journey before we start tomorrow. Travel here is cheaper than you’d think considering that millions of people demonstrated about the rising price of public transport tickets in spring. A return ticket is R$6 or £1.69- the same price as a single in Preston!

The subway entrance is right next to the Pinacoteca, which is pretty handy. The first thing that you see when you walk up the subway stairs is a massive palm tree, and even though they’re all over the place here it still seems a surreal thing to see on the way to work.

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Palm tree through the subway

 

It was difficult not to compare the Pinacoteca to the other galleries that we’ve seen here so far.

The Auditorio and the Museau Afro Brasil both seemed to have pretty casual attitudes towards the display of objects and preventive conservation. There were lots of objects on open display without “do not touch” signs in either and we couldn’t see any means of measuring light or relative humidity in either. We saw a little spider crawling underneath one object in an exhibit in the Museau Afro Brasil. We didn’t see any form of pest monitor and there was a pretty hefty amount of damp on the ceiling too.

The Pinacoteca seemed much more conservation- conscious and had a full space dedicated to raising conservation awareness that was translated into Portuguese, Spanish and English. We even had a sneaky peak at the lab because there are massive windows that allow the public to look in on the conservators at work, though nobody was in today with it being a Sunday.

The architecture and layout of the three galleries is very varied. We could go into loads of detail but now is not the time or the place so you can have a little overview instead….

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The outside of the Auditorio

The  most  notable aesthetic qualities of the Auditorio is are its dome shaped exterior with round windows, which make it look like a spaceship crossed with an igloo and its spacious interior, which give it a really relaxed atmosphere.

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Issy inside the Auditorio

The interior and exterior shapes of the Museau Afro Brasil aren’t particularly striking but the museum does utilize colours in more  interesting ways. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside but we loved how the walls of the gallery are all painted in bright, bold tones of different colours reds, blues, purples, yellow and greens, without being over powering and detracting from the art. Again, it created a much more welcoming atmosphere than your average cold white gallery (yes White Cube gallery, I mean you).

The Pinacoteca’s architecure is a big old juxtaposition of late 20th c. fixtures that have been made to work the original late 19th c. building. That means a gorgeous gridded glass ceiling that makes the lights up the space and creates huge shadow patterns on the walls, a wine coloured lift that blends in with the brick work without being too cold and various little bridges to connect the floors.

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The glass ceiling and bridges that are later additions to the Pinacoteca

There’s also a nice contrast of old and new artworks in the Pinacoteca too.

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Issy and a mixture of 19th and 20th artworks on the balcony at the Pinacoteca

It was interesting to have our first real insight into 19th century Brazilian artists and it was strange to see how big an influence European art had on artists here. We saw copies of European paintings that had been copies of older painters. Meaning lots of second wave Brazilian expressionists and impressionists. The styles and subjects of lots of the pictures reminded me of the collection at the Harris Museum in Preston, which is full of paintings from the same era  but created by artists born thousands of miles away from Brazil.

We thought it was strange that we were Europeans visiting Brazil to learn about artwork created by Brazilians who went to Europe to learn about art.

Its getting late (can you tell? I’ve started rambling) and we’ve got six more weeks at the Pinacoteca to tell you about its many wonders so I will leave you with some of my photos from the Pinacoteca and the Jardim de Luz, the sculpture park next to the gallery.

 

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Issy looking out from the front balcony at the Pinacoteca
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The View from the Back Balcony at the Pinacoteca
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Issy in the Jardim de Luz
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View from the front of the Pinacoteca

 

Everything from our flight to our breakfast…

We’re going to take it in turns to post so I’ll let you know how we got on yesterday!

The flight was great! It was the first long haul flight for both of us and we can definitely get used to travelling with complimentary wine and movies ( I advise you to watch the Internship and Issy would advise you against seeing the Bling Ring or the Big Wedding!)  BA’s vegan food options were lovely too so I didn’t even need to crack into the Bourbons until we got here!

On the flight we met Tatiana, a lovely Brazilian lady who had been at a conference in the Czech Republic and gave us some tips on places to visit in Brazil, and Robbie possibly- probably!- the world’s best flight attendant who gave us many useful tips and sneaked us a cheeky pot of hand cream that is complimentary for first class passengers.

We didn’t sleep much on the plane so we were pretty tired when we arrived at 5.50am. Our hostel owner, Gustavo picked us up from the airport and drove us back to the hostel. We got our first glimpse of Sao Paulo to a soundtrack of chilled out of Brazilian and English music. We couldn’t get over how big the city is! There are endless amounts of skyscrapers. Apparently if you go to the tallest building in Sao Paulo you can’t even see the end of the city on the horizon. The congestion was really bad because the population here is so huge and it was strange to see so many enormous tropical trees in between the hundreds of cars that we were stuck in traffic with.

Our hostel is lovely- brightly coloured tiles and paintings everywhere, along with big bean bags and cushions. We’ll get some photos up when the Internet decides to let us. The hostel staff that we’ve met so far, Gustavo, Natalie and Mia, are all really helpful and friendly.

Our neighbourhood, Vila Mariana is very clean and interesting, loads of huge, well-kept apartment blocks.

We took a walk to the beautiful Ibrapuera Park and visited the Auditorio. There was an interesting exhibition about a Brazilian accordion player and all around good- time guy called Luiz Gonzaga. Listen to his album, Volta Pra Curtir here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRaki3I5K5M

We made a crackin’ lentil and veg stew for dinner- food seems pretty cheap as we did a fairly big shop for £10 between us. Breakfast is included and we found our that they make their own bread and jam! here We had some gorgeous pineapple jam this morning and apparently Natalie is very experimental with her fruit combinations and her previous jam creations include combinations like melon and strawberry!

We’re going to explore some more today and we’ll update again tomorrow!